Europe,  La Palma,  Los Tilos,  Spain

Hiking in Los Tilos: Monday 19th October 2020

I woke early and watched the sunrise again over Santa Cruz beach.  The sky to the north of the island was clear so I decided to go for a hike around Los Tilos National Park.   This part of the island is the most green as the top of the hills are usually shrouded in cloud. The region is a Unesco Biosphere due to it’s unique cloud forests. I parked at the visitors centre and decided to hike to Marcos y Cordero

It was a long walk up through the hills which started with a gradual incline but became progressively more difficult. The start of the walk took me through dense Tilo forest with giant ferns lining the path.

Trail through Los Tilos forest
Giant ferns

This part of the island has a unique climate and is home to one of few Laurisilva forests left in the world. The islanders name the tree Tilo and it is a type of laurel.

Tilos tree

I passed a group of Spanish walkers and we tried to communicate but mainly through laughter. I was walking faster than the group but they often over took me when I stopped to take photos along the way.

Group of Spanish walkers who I would encounter many times on my hike.

The path gradually became steeper as I climbed up the valley through the woods. I stopped at the Espigon Atravesado viewpoint which had great views across the valley and up into the hills where I would be hiking.

The trail opened up where the Marcos and Cordero valleys meet providing a wonderful view point.

Marcos y Cordero view point where the two valleys meet
Selfie at Marco and Cordero viewpoint

The path continued the ascent up through the valley. In some places the path was very exposed where trees and bushes has been eroded by landslides.

The more exposed parts of the trail where landslides has removed the trees and bushes

I continued to hike upwards where the path was replaced a dry river bed with a scramble over large boulders.

Navigating my way up through the river bed

After 2 hours of hiking I finally reached the top of the valley and the sources of the Corderos spring. 

The Corderos spring

I had to pass through this area quickly as there were signs warning that the area is prone to rockfalls.

Unstable cliff face where small rock falls are frequent

The path continued around the top ridge of the valley following the path of a water canal.

Corderos water canal
Corderos water canal winding is way along the cliff face

The trail continued along the water canal passing through tunnels carved into the mountain.

After 15 minutes I reached the Los Espejos viewpoint.

Los Espejos view point
Los Espejos viewpoint

I could see springs cascading down the side of the cliff face which are a major source of fresh water on the island.

One of the many springs cascading down the cliff face

The trail continued to follow the canals but I decided to I start my return hike back down the valley. On my way back I meet the group of Spanish hikers again who all looked very tired and asked me how far it was to the top.  They were impressed with how quickly I had made it to the top.

I reached the bottom at 3.30 pm and saw signs for a restaurant.  I was tired and hungry so I was disappointed when I found that it was closed due to Covid.  I drove back to Santa Cruz hoping to stop at a restaurant on the way but all the roadside places were closed due to the lack of tourists.  

When I arrived back at in Santa Cruz I went to a bar near where I was staying to have a nice cold beer and large house salad with ‘Papas Locas’ which when translated is called ‘crazy potatoes’. 

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